Tuesday, May 19, 2015

5k: KBZ Fleet Sale: 1998 BMW E39 540i 6MT

As previously mentioned, DT's logo guru Kaibeezy is relocating to Neptune for career reasons, and the cost per gram to send stuff into space is astronomical, so he is liquidating his entire fleet via these pages.  Up next in the DT exclusive fleet sale is this 1998 BMW E39 540i 6MT with 184K miles offered for $6,000.


From Kaibeezy.

The Bad:
- mild shimmy at 50mph - see post from a couple of weeks ago re likely fix
- a few dead pixels in the display
- 2 of the 4 windshield washer squirters stopped squirting


- I can't figure out how to open the trunk while the key is in the ignition
- just started asking for new brake pads this week :(
- srsly, that's really it


The Good:
- cared-for daily driver, no squeaks, fast, confidence-inspiring, seriously great car
- new water pump, CVV, tires, plugs

- 600 Watt sub OMG yes
- black black, reasonably clean inside and out, everything works
- sport seats, heated steering wheel, upgrade head/tail lights, nice dark tint
- ice cold AC


As with the roadmaster, but for moving, I would **never** sell this car (and I would have been fixing up all the little bits mentioned above)


I really had myself dialed in here with these two cars - I'm bummed about having to sell them - I'd better come up with something nice when I get where I'm going.


If you are interested in contacting Kaibeezy about the purchase of this BMW (or the Roadmaster) please send an email to tips@dailyturismo.com with your contact info.



46 comments:

  1. Assume those are 16in snow-tire wheels as they're not the 7-spoke 17x8 style 19 wheels (IMO the most attractive ever used on an E39) that came on the car.

    Got the sport seats, cool.

    At 184K it really needs cam guides. REALLY needs cam guides.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You are correct, sir - I'm rollin' 16's - I don't have the story on that, unfortunately

      Delete
  2. Paging K2, this is your gateway drug, I mean car into the BMW world.
    It is a great design,easy to work, fast, a blast to drive, and will not depreciate.
    Come on over to the dark side!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You know what? I absolutely WOULD contemplate it. But I'd really like it as a wagon (touring, whatever) and I found one the other day for sale online that somebody had done a masterful job on, with a great price (it's gone now, I just looked). I sent it to the DT tips addy but I guess it wasn't that interesting. Or maybe the swap was just too boring in comparison to the wild stuff that usually appears here on our beloved DT. That's okay. Still, the other issue for me would be the RWD, as this would have to be a year-round car for me (the sports car stays in the shed over the winter). So, what's been everybody's experience driving one of these in the snow with a good set of snow tires? My FWD V70 with Blizzaks is unstoppable except when it gets so deep that nobody goes out anyway and I'm pretty used to it, frankly. It might be difficult to go from that back to RWD, no?

      Delete
    2. K2 - My S70 is as your V70... unstoppable with the proper set of snow tires. I've had snow coming up over the hood on I-70 and never had an issue with forward or directional control. Vision is a different story entirely.

      I ran a fleet of 700 series turbo wagons (RWD, for the most part open diffs) in Maine winters for years. As long as I had the correct tires I never had an issue then either, though 2x 50lb sand bags cargo-netted into the rear cargo area between the wheel arches didn't hurt.

      For further, quasi-scientific testing on the drive wheels vs. snow tires, some decent info is available
      here.

      Delete
    3. Thanks, RyanM! I will read that article. The last time I drove a RWD in the snow was in the early 90s and I can't say that I loved it. Yep, these S/V cars are pretty amazing, really. I'm constantly amazed by mine and I had no intention of liking it whatsoever when I bought it. It was purely for practical reasons, the first and only car I've ever acquired with such a thing in mind. Who knew I'd end up loving the d@mn thing!?!

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    4. So, read the article and now on to the contemplatin'...I think it sounds like KBZ's 540 (for example) would be okay on really good snow tires. But the article was really comparing an AWD with summers versus a RWD with snows, so I'm guessing a really good FWD (I realize not all are like that *ahem, Honda*) with snows is better than a RWD with snows. No?

      Delete
    5. My 540 touring is my winter beater. Pop off the summer 17 sports and on go the 16's with Michelin Alpin primacys. Michelin mid range snow..they have a model even more aggressive , but I wanted to keep good freeway manners. Never stuck or had a oh crap am I going to make it ever. I have had fresh snow rolling over the hood ! Live in columbus ohio so not doing that every day... if i lived in buffalo new York I would probably think about a differnet vehicle. Those too lazy to check early post, 50-60 shimmy is classic thrust arm bushing failure. good luck with sale. These 540's are the best bmw ever made. Fast, fun, not overly complicated like the modern stuff, classic looks, luxury tweaks ...hell...my steering wheel is heated! Cup holders suck as tho.

      Delete
    6. @pcar - I'm with you on the cup holders (minimalist is the best you can say) and heated steering wheel (so nice), whereas heated seats always make me feel like I had a wee accident - the adjustable thigh support is a winner though - and what the gas pedal does, yow

      Delete
    7. @K2 - yeah a good FWD with good snows will be better than a good RWD with good snows, however that BMW with its near perfect weight distro will be better than most RWD cars and some FWD cars. And the article was just trying to illustrate that the tire makes the majority of the difference vs. the wheels driven.

      Delete
    8. I've been told and read that many times. But to tell you the truth, I never really understood the logic. Wouldn't you want more weight over the driven wheels? That would explain why people add bags of sand and whatnot to their RWD cars' trunk.

      I remember trying to move the performance-shod 951 when there was a light dusting of snow on the ground, years ago. It couldn't get out of the spot it was in, no matter how easy I went, in whatever gear, even trying to "rock it". That car had a wonderful balance too but the engine was in the front and the driven tires in the back. I'm sure with snows it could have sort of gotten through but I'm guessing it wouldn't be anywhere near as confident and comfortable as the Shadowagon.

      I'm sure I'll get flamed with the science behind it all but all I know is that the right FWD car with snows is all most people need in the area I live in. Yet, like a lot of places, they're driving gigantic SUVs for "winter safety".

      But that also answers my question; could a powerful car like the 540 still be usable in winter with snow tires? Answer; yes. Just not as good as the FWD with snows. Since I don't pine for RWD in my all-season car all that much as I get older, it doesn't seem like it's worth much to me. My "play" car, well that's a different story...

      Delete
    9. Back when FWD was new and weird, I remember being the only guy getting anywhere in the snow with my Saab 99.

      Delete
    10. The rally guys can explain it:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKbU_deIFWM

      Delete
    11. @K2, my RWD summer-tire (BFG KDW 225/40/17) shod Volvo 700 series wagon with an open diff would just sit there and spin one tire when I let my foot off of the clutch with zero throttle applied in anything more than a dusting. This is on flat ground in my driveway.

      Changing that car over to studded Nokian Hakkapeliitta's in 185/65/15 turned it into a monster even with an open diff and empty cargo area. It was more surefooted and confidence inspiring than the non-snow-tire equipped FWD Accord and BFG A/T equipped Cherokee 4x4 it shared a garage with.

      Naturally, if I had put equivalent snow tires on the Accord or Cherokee they would have been better than the Volvo... but living in Maine I had zero issues with open diff'd RWD cars and snow tires in the winter.

      Opinion: Allowing the effects of a few months of winter to dictate what you drive for the rest of the year is kind of like letting the tail wag the dog. I love me some S/V70 but the 540i 6-spd will definitely spank them both during the [large] portion of the year that isn't winter as far as driving dynamics are concerned. If you're worried that much about winter driving, keep the V70 (or buy a FWD beater) and garage the BMW when it snows. Again, personally I consider marginally worse winter handling and snow tires to be a fair "tax" to pay for the, ahem, "ultimate" driving experience for the rest of the year.

      As always, your mileage may vary. Not trying to be a jerk, but I just had this conversation a few weeks ago with a FL to NH transplant friend of mine as he woefully described the pain of "having" to sell his Panamera and M3 in favor of more winter-friendly vehicles for him and his wife before the snow starts again. I was unsuccessful.

      Delete
    12. Truthfully, I don't really care all that much. Just interested because I'd be more open to a RWD when the time comes to replace the Shadowagon. Which I am, now. Thanks!

      Still, OTHER THAN MY FELLOW DTERS, I still contend that FWD is all most other folks need unless they live in the boonies or something. And even then...

      Delete
  3. I gotta favor to ask my fellow DTers.

    I've got a part in my book where a car needs to be quickly permanently disabled but other than making the engine inop, it can't hurt any person in or near the car and the result is that the car just won't start. So no fireball explosions and you can keep your C4 in your basement. Pour something into the gas tank? Puncture the oil pan? That last one is no good because it would take too long; can't have the driver walk up to the vehicle and notice a river of dinosaur juice draining into the azaleas. So my character would have to flop on his back, punch a hole in the pan and stand there waiting for the oil to drain. Won't work. Flattening the tires won't work because that doesn't permanently and massively damage the ability to drive the car. Messing with the brakes would be dangerous to a driver and any passengers, as well as any innocent third party.

    So put on your criminal thinking cap; your thoughts and comments would be much appreciated!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sodium silicate could be added to the oil. This was the "death agent" used in the CARS / "Cash for Clunkers" program to seize engines solid. They drained the oil first and replaced it with a few liters of Na2SiO3. Next time the engine is started, the liquid glass starts to solidify and destroys the bearings pretty quickly. Not sure how long that process would take if the oil wasn't first drained, but hey, you could always buy a $500 beater and do some research testing for your book.

      Delete
    2. In pretty much all those scenarios the car will start, but it will croak shortly thereafter.

      How permanent is permanent, and is it a particular type of car? If you really want a no-start it has to be electrical or fuel.

      Delete
    3. In pretty much all those scenarios the car will start, but it will croak shortly thereafter.

      How permanent is permanent, and is it a particular type of car? If you really want a no-start it has to be electrical or fuel.

      Delete
    4. In pretty much all those scenarios the car will start, but it will croak shortly thereafter.

      How permanent is permanent, and is it a particular type of car? If you really want a no-start it has to be electrical or fuel.

      Delete
    5. K2 - if you can crawl under the car, start going crazy with wire cutters on whatever part of the harness you can find. Or pull the propshaft if RWD and parked on flat ground.

      Or just go all James Bond and use some kind of EMP.

      Really depends on the level of access and amount of time your protagonist (?) has with the subject vehicle.

      What, pray tell, is the subject vehicle?

      Delete
    6. Sorry folks, answers to your queries...

      1) Early 2000s Nissan Altima, so FWD
      2) No access to the interior to pop the hood or otherwise
      3) The less evidence the better, none would be ideal
      4) How does one go about getting or building an EMP?
      5) Less time with the car the better, 5 minutes max

      Thanks everyone! I really appreciate it. I'm going to write you guys into the story.

      Delete
    7. Early 2000's Altima? Piece of cake! It'll eventually stop running all by itself in a fairly catastrophic manner. No need for fancy schmancy spy craft. /sarc

      Is it the 2nd gen (2001 and earlier) or 3rd gen (2002 - 2006)?

      Delete
    8. So, no signs of sabotage would be best. Still, I love all of the answers you guys have already come up with! You guys have a bright future as criminals ahead of you.

      Delete
    9. Proud New Papa (aka RyanM); ha! I wish! I think it will be a 3rd gen. Unfortunately, I know too many people with this actual car and though those cars are a POS, they keep on running? I know there are plenty that just fall apart but the folks I know that have them still drive them with no signs of busticating. I know it's weird and against all logic but I'm not making it up. I've scatted upon ye ol' Nissan enough here on DT for you to know that's true and I'm not making it up.

      Delete
    10. Easy peasy. Take a pair of locking vice clamp pliers, craw under rear of car and clamp the flexible fuel line (at the fuel filter) off. Done and done. [img]http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/drivefast1971/2011-07-15_172552_2.gif[/img]
      Alternatively, a well placed smack of a bumper with a 2X4 might be enough to trigger an inertia switch to go into lockdown mode.
      Or just disconnect the fuel pump harness at the tank fuel pump (from the rear again).
      If you want to get techie, you could use a powerful rare earth magnet and affix it to the top of the crankshaft position sensor (should be accessible from the underside of the front driver's wheel area) which should allow the car to crank but no fire. Or just disconnect that sensor.

      Delete
    11. EMP do-it-yourself build...http://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-EMP-Generator
      Pretty easy build!

      Delete
    12. I have always wanted to do expanding foam up the tailpipe as far as it could go
      (I'm not falling for the old banana in the tailpipe)

      Also I have always wanted to do expanding foam (not in a can but a mixed couple gallons) in someones interior. It would be awesome!

      Delete
    13. That EMP build is awesome! I could do that. So that begs the question, would it fry the cars parked next to it? Interestingly, there appear to be plenty of EMP generators for sale on eBay. I wonder if they're the real deal?

      @DT; would you have to leave the vice grips on the vehicle? Or would the crimping be enough? I wouldn't want to damage the line as it could cause a fire, right?

      If the inertia switch could be triggered that way, couldn't a person do the same thing by bumping it with the bumper of another car? I suppose that would do the same to that car, too then...how is the inertia switch fixed? By replacing it?

      Disconnecting the sensor and the magnet are great ideas, but again wouldn't they be pretty easy to fix?

      Thanks again, everyone. You're awesome!

      Delete
    14. Brilliant, Sean Scott! It won't work for my purposes, but Stallone agrees with you.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qc1cX0abcJc

      Delete
    15. Sodium silicate could be added to the oil. This was the "death agent" used in the CARS / "Cash for Clunkers" program to seize engines solid. They drained the oil first and replaced it with a few liters of Na2SiO3. Next time the engine is started, the liquid glass starts to solidify and destroys the bearings pretty quickly. Not sure how long that process would take if the oil wasn't first drained, but hey, you could always buy a $500 beater and do some research testing for your book.

      Delete
    16. how about a big crowbar or tire iron to the radiator repeatedly - even if the car is running, the cloud of steam (there'd be a cloud of steam, right?) would give a driver serious pause - and then it would overheat

      anyhoo, this conversation is one for the saturday cabbage - can we get back to talking about my car?

      Delete
    17. or this

      [img]http://www.modifiedplanet.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/car-photo-2010-infiniti-g37s-coupe-wheels-rims-stolen.jpg[/img]

      Delete
    18. Had a thought that unfortunately also breaks the "no visible signs of sabotage" rule; a squirt of crazy glue in the ignition. But there's no access to the interior, so that won't work. Then I thought about doing the same thing to the door lock(s) but they'd have keyless entry so no go. What else could we crazy glue to derail this vehicle without any risk of injury?

      This comment is sponsored by Kaibeezy's Kooky Kar Sales - they'll beat you down with bad jokes until you buy their cars!

      Delete
    19. It's either big cutters on the + cable at the starter motor or crimp/pinch/etc the fuel line if you don't want externally visible evidence. Neither is "permanent" but both are disabling enough to need serious diagnosis time.

      I've always liked "cutting the brake lines" but that doesn't stop the car from running, it just kills you later.

      Delete
    20. If the gas tank filler has access, just fill with water. So in your book it could be the garden hose.

      If there is no under hood/gas filler access and tools/time are not an option, I would suggest a knife to cut either the fan belts (old car) or serpentine belt.

      Delete
    21. El Jefe! Would it be possible to make this a feature? Folks keep coming up with some brilliant stuff and I don't want to continue to bogart KBZ's car ad even though it seems to be drawing even more views, so that's a good thing.

      This comment sponsored by Kaibeezy's Kar Sales - We'll make you a deal OR ELSE!

      Delete
  4. EMP Cannon...fries the electrical system. Electro Magnetic Pulse...works every time!

    ReplyDelete
  5. As long as you're right next to the vehicle you're trying to disable, you won't damage the surrounding vehicles (unless it's some HUGE EMP generator!) The one I listed is small enough to inflict major damage to an automobile. Also, the car does not need to be running either to have the desired effect. It's basically the same principle as a static charge to sensitive electronics, like chips, etc. You don't need to powered up to kill it, that's why you always try to ground yourself working on sensitive electronics. Hope that helps.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think we may have a winner! No wonder you're posting as Anonymous.

      Delete
    2. ROFL - good point!

      Delete
  6. Help, kaibeezy has been carjacked!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. LOL---I did sorta forget we were talking about an actual car for sale here.

      Delete
    2. Sorry about that, KBZ - I'll use my homemade EMP genny on my laptop now.
      Now back to the regularly scheduled programming already in progress...

      Delete

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